Spa Electrical

Spa Electrical

99 products

  • -37% Off
    Len Gordon Control AS-TD Combo-95-30 Min 120/240V 20 Amp Without Button 921810-001

    Len Gordon Control AS-TD Combo-95-30 Min 120/240V 20 Amp Without Button 921810-001

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    Len Gordon Control AS-TD Combo-95-30 Min 120/240V 20 Amp Without Button 921810-001

    Len Gordon

    921810-001
    Sale Price Value: 0 Sale Price Number: 0 Website Price Value: 0 Website Price Number: 0 All Metafields: {"bundle":"gid:\/\/shopify\/Metaobject\/110264451137","mpn":"921810-001","saleprice":"0","warehouselocations":"Tucson, AZ"}
    $214.20
    $342.70 $214.20
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  • -47% Off
    Relay, Top Flange-Mount 120Vac 20Amp(Kuhp-5A51-120)

    Relay, Top Flange-Mount 120Vac 20Amp(Kuhp-5A51-120)

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    Relay, Top Flange-Mount 120Vac 20Amp(Kuhp-5A51-120)

    TODELETE

    17M0235
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    $80.20
    $153.10 $80.20
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  • -58% Off
    Fuse 20A Power Input

    Fuse 20A Power Input

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    Fuse 20A Power Input

    Balboa Water Group

    30142
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    $13.10
    $31.50 $13.10
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Spa electrical parts are what stand between you and a tub that boots up, holds heat, and switches loads on demand. Our spa electrical components collection covers the unglamorous parts that fail first when a hot tub starts misbehaving: fuses, relays, contactors, transformers, terminal blocks, GFCI components, cord sets, and the rocker, toggle, and slide switches that wire into spa pack control boards. Brands include Hydro-Quip, Balboa, Sundance, T-92, and other OEM-grade replacements.

A blown spa fuse is usually a symptom, not the disease — but it's a five-minute fix that can save a $400 control board if you catch it early. Common culprits: a 30A T-92 DPST relay welded by a surge, a 12V transformer that finally cooked after a decade of duty cycling, or a GFCI breaker that's been nuisance-tripping because the heater element is leaking to ground (heater swaps live in our Spa Heaters collection). Always pull the spa pack model number before ordering relays — Balboa BP packs, Hydro-Quip CS-series, and Sundance LX systems use different relay footprints. UL 1563 is the safety standard for hot tub electrical components if you want to confirm a replacement meets the same certification.

When you're sourcing a spa transformer, match the input voltage (115V, 230V, or dual), output voltage (typically 12V or 24V for spa light and ozonator circuits), and connector style — molded plugs are common on Hydro-Quip wet-end transformers, while bare-wire or screw-terminal styles are standard on Balboa. Receptacles, cord sets, and adapter cords for pump and accessory ports are also stocked here; for the spa pack the receptacles plug into, see our Spa Packs collection. Balboa's service portal publishes color-coded receptacle charts for every BP-series pack.

Shop the full spa electrical lineup below — fuses, relays, transformers, switches, and cord sets all ship from one of our ten U.S. warehouses so the tub is back in service before the weekend.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I match the right relay to my spa pack?
Open the pack and read the part number printed on the existing relay — common spa relays are T-92 30A DPST, T-9A 20A SPST, or potter-brumfield equivalents. The two numbers that matter are coil voltage (usually 24VAC for spa control boards) and contact rating (the amp draw of the load the relay switches, typically pumps at 12A or heaters at 23A). Don't mix coil voltages — a 24V relay will not pull in on a 12V coil signal.
Why does my spa keep blowing the same fuse?
A fuse that blows immediately after replacement means there's still a short somewhere downstream. The usual suspects: a heater element leaking to ground (test the element with a multimeter — should read open between the element and the metal heater tube), a pump motor with shorted windings, or a damaged wiring harness rubbing on a sharp metal edge inside the pack. Replacing the fuse without finding the short will either blow the new fuse or, worse, weld the wire inside the spa pack.
What is a contactor and how is it different from a relay?
Contactors and relays are functionally similar — both use a small coil signal to close large contacts — but contactors are built for higher amperage continuous loads. In a hot tub, contactors typically switch heater circuits (23A) or 230V pumps, while relays handle smaller loads like the spa light or ozonator. If your contactor chatters or hums, the coil is failing; if it clicks but the load doesn't come on, the contacts are pitted from arcing and need replacement.
Can I replace a 115V transformer with a 230V one if my spa is wired for 230V?
Only if the existing transformer is genuinely 115V input — most modern spa transformers are dual-voltage (115V/230V) with a selector jumper or two primary taps on the side. Pull the cover, identify the input wiring, and confirm what voltage the transformer is currently seeing. Match the new transformer to the same input voltage and output voltage. The output (usually 12V for accessory circuits) is what powers the spa light and ozonator, so an output mismatch kills those loads.
Do you stock GFCI breakers for spas?
We stock GFCI components that integrate with spa pack power cords and sub-panels, but full 50A or 60A spa subpanel GFCI breakers are usually sourced from an electrical supplier and installed by a licensed electrician. If your existing GFCI keeps nuisance-tripping, the cause is almost always a leaking heater element, water inside a pump motor, or a wet ground bond — not a bad breaker. Diagnose the leak before replacing the GFCI.