The pool pump seal plate is the metal or plastic disk between the wet end (strainer pot) and the motor that holds the shaft seal in place. If yours is cracked, warped, or corroded, the pump leaks and the shaft seal can’t seal correctly. Replacement is a 30-minute job during a motor swap.
When to replace the seal plate
- Visible cracks in the seal plate.
- Corrosion or pitting on the motor-facing surface.
- Seal plate is warped (won’t sit flat).
- Threaded bolt holes are stripped.
- You’re upgrading from one pump generation to another and the seal plate is different.
Step-by-step replacement
Cut power at the breaker. Drain the pump.
Remove the perimeter bolts holding the assembly to the strainer pot. Pull the motor assembly straight back.
Reverse-thread — counter-clockwise. Hold the shaft from behind. Use a strap wrench around the impeller if it’s stuck.
4–6 bolts hold the plate. Loosen evenly in a star pattern.
Pry gently with a flat screwdriver.
Torque per manufacturer spec, typically 8–12 ft-lb.
Lubricate boots with silicone pool lubricant. Press the stationary half into the seal plate (polished face out); press the rotating half onto the impeller hub.
Hand-tight. The pump’s rotation self-tightens during operation.
Drop the motor + new seal plate into the strainer pot. Tighten perimeter bolts in a star pattern.
Seal plate replacement parts
Need help identifying your specific seal plate? Send PST Pool Supplies a photo of the existing plate and your pump model.