Hayward AquaRite salt chlorinator install on a daylight equipment pad

How To Install a Hayward AquaRite Salt Chlorine Generator

Installing a Hayward AquaRite salt chlorine generator on an existing chlorine pool is a 3–5 hour project for a handy homeowner. The kit itself is straightforward, but a clean install — with proper flow direction, grounding, and bonding — is the difference between “works for a decade” and “throws errors every other week.” Here’s the step-by-step.

What’s in the kit

A complete AquaRite install includes:

  • The AquaRite control box (the main computer).
  • The TurboCell (T-CELL-3, T-CELL-9, or T-CELL-15) sized to your pool.
  • A flow switch.
  • Plumbing unions for cell installation.
  • The cell cord (typically 15 feet).
  • Mounting bracket and hardware.

What you’ll need to add

  • 2-inch PVC pipe and fittings to splice the cell into your return-side plumbing.
  • PVC primer and cement.
  • 120V or 240V electrical supply to the AquaRite location.
  • 8-gauge solid copper wire for bonding.
  • Pool salt (calculated to bring your pool to 3,200 ppm).
Electrical work. The AquaRite needs a dedicated GFCI-protected circuit. If you’re not comfortable pulling new wire to a 120V/240V supply, hire an electrician for that portion. Plumbing you can DIY; line voltage you should not.

Step-by-step installation

1Pick the cell location.

The cell goes AFTER the heater (if you have one) and AFTER the filter, on the return-side plumbing on the way back to the pool. There needs to be 4 pipe diameters of straight run before the cell so flow is laminar. Cell horizontal or vertical both work.

2Mount the AquaRite control box.

Mount at eye level, within reach of the cell cord (15 feet typical). Protect from direct sun and rain. The control box is the brain — if it overheats, the cell stops generating.

3Cut into the return plumbing.

Mark the location, then cut a section about the length of the cell + 6 inches. Use a PVC saw — not a hacksaw — for a clean cut. Sand the cut ends smooth.

4Install unions and the flow switch.

Glue 2-inch slip unions to each end of the cell. Install the flow switch in the return line BEFORE the cell. The flow switch must be oriented with the arrow pointing in the direction of water flow.

5Connect the cell to the unions.

Hand-tighten the unions. The cell has an arrow indicating flow direction — align it with the water flow direction. Cells installed backward will produce zero chlorine.

6Wire the AquaRite.

Connect the dedicated 120V or 240V supply to the AquaRite per the wiring diagram on the inside of the cover. Connect the bonding wire to the bonding lug. Connect the cell cord. Plug in the flow-switch cable.

7Add salt.

Calculate the salt needed to reach 3,000–3,400 ppm (typically 25–100 lb depending on pool size). Add per our add-salt tutorial. Run the pump for 24 hours to fully dissolve.

8Power on and configure.

Power on the AquaRite. Press and hold Diagnostic to enter setup. Select the cell size you installed (T-3, T-9, or T-15). Set the desired chlorine output to 50% as a starting point. Confirm “Generating” light is on.

9Adjust stabilizer for salt pools.

Salt pools need 60–80 ppm cyanuric acid, higher than the 30–50 ppm range for chlorine pools. Test and add stabilizer if needed.

The parts you may need at install time

After install

Run the AquaRite for 24 hours and confirm free chlorine creeps up to 2–3 ppm. If chlorine stays at zero, see our new salt cell troubleshooting guide. Adjust the output percentage as needed for your pool’s bather load and sun exposure.

If you want help sizing the cell and matching the AquaRite controller to your specific pool, send PST Pool Supplies your pool gallons, current sanitizer type, and a photo of your equipment pad.

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