Pool Light Parts

Collection: Pool Light Parts

503 products

Inground Pool Light Assembly & Replacement Parts

Restore and maintain your inground pool lighting system with the right pool light replacement parts — niches, gaskets, retaining rims, face plates, and installation tools for Hayward, Zodiac, and CMP pool light systems. PST Pool Supplies stocks the most commonly required inground pool light service components, starting from $12.

Hayward light niches are the most frequently replaced light system components. The Hayward Duraniche line covers the three main pool light applications: the SP0600U concrete pool light niche (for concrete/gunite pools), SP0601U concrete spa light niche, and SP0607U vinyl/fiberglass light niche — all providing the underwater housing that holds the light fixture and maintains the watertight integrity of the pool shell penetration. The SP0608U PVC spa light niche for vinyl/fiberglass is the flexible installation niche for retrofit applications. For maintaining existing niches, the SPX0503W Hayward lens gasket replaces the seal between the light fixture and niche face — the most common cause of light-related water leaks. The SPX0507D back retaining rim and SPX0507Z1AL self-tapping screw set are assembly hardware for the Hayward light niche system. The Zodiac Jandy Pro Series silicone gasket/small colors replacement kit (R0400500) covers the Jandy Pro Series color light fixture. The CMP black niche face plate (25549-204-000) provides a clean exterior finish for CMP niche installations. The Hayward Accent Light installation tool (SP0536CTOOL) simplifies fixture removal and installation in existing niches. For complete light fixtures and replacement bulbs, browse our pool lights collection. NEC Article 680 governs all inground pool lighting installations — see the NFPA 70 standard for compliance requirements.

Pool light niche replacement is a significant service procedure that requires draining the pool to below the niche level and working with the pool shell — always consult a licensed electrician or pool professional before replacing a light niche. Lens gasket replacement, by contrast, can often be done without draining — the fixture is typically removed through the niche while the pool remains filled, the gasket replaced on the bench, and the fixture reinstalled. Always inspect the lens gasket whenever a pool light is serviced, and replace it proactively if any compression set or cracking is visible — a failed gasket allows water into the fixture housing and will cause premature bulb or LED failure.

Shop inground pool light replacement parts and keep your underwater lighting system sealed, safe, and performing brilliantly.

Frequently Asked Questions

My pool light is leaking — what part needs replacing?
A pool light leak most commonly comes from one of three sources: the lens gasket, the conduit fitting, or the niche body itself. The lens gasket (Hayward SPX0503W or equivalent for your brand) seals between the light fixture's front face and the niche opening — when this gasket ages, it loses its compression set and allows water to seep into the fixture or behind the niche. This is the most common and easiest-to-fix leak source — the fixture can often be removed and the gasket replaced without draining the pool. The conduit fitting (where the conduit enters the niche from behind) can also fail. The niche body cracking is less common but requires pool drainage and niche replacement. To diagnose: if water is visible inside the light fixture globe after replacement, the lens gasket is the likely culprit. If water appears around the niche perimeter in the pool shell, the niche body or conduit seal is the source.
Do I need to drain my pool to replace the pool light niche?
Yes — replacing a pool light niche (SP0600U, SP0607U, SP0601U, etc.) requires draining the pool below the niche location, typically 12–18 inches below the light opening. The niche is bonded to the pool shell using the appropriate adhesive for your pool type (plaster/gunite or vinyl), and this work cannot be done with the niche underwater. Niche replacement is a significant project — in a concrete pool, the old niche must be chiseled or ground out and the new niche set in hydraulic cement or structural epoxy. Lens gasket replacement, by contrast, usually does not require draining — the light fixture assembly is removed from the niche (typically held by a single screw at the top of the niche), the gasket replaced on the pool deck, and the fixture reinstalled. If you need niche replacement, contact a licensed pool professional.
What is the difference between a concrete and a vinyl pool light niche?
Pool light niches are designed for specific pool construction types. Concrete/gunite pool niches (Hayward SP0600U, SP0601U) are embedded in the pool shell during construction or renovation — they are designed to be set in concrete and bonded to the pool structure. Vinyl/fiberglass niches (Hayward SP0607U, SP0608U PVC) are designed for retrofit installation in vinyl liner and fiberglass pools where the niche attaches to a prefabricated opening in the pool wall rather than being cast in concrete. Using the wrong niche type for your pool construction can result in poor sealing and structural issues. Always verify your pool type (concrete/gunite, vinyl liner, or fiberglass) before ordering a replacement niche. The niche dimensions (diameter and depth) must also match your existing fixture — Hayward niches are standardized to accept Hayward fixtures, but other brands may require adapter hardware.
What is a zinc anode for a pool ladder and why does it matter?
The Pool Tool zinc anode (anti-electrolysis) for pool ladders and rails is a sacrificial zinc component that attaches to stainless steel pool hardware to protect it from galvanic corrosion. In pools where electrical current flows through the water — from nearby electrical sources, improperly bonded equipment, or swimming pool lights — stainless steel hardware can corrode much faster than normal through a process called galvanic or stray-current corrosion. Zinc, being more electrochemically active than stainless steel, attracts and absorbs this corrosive activity instead — the zinc 'sacrifices' itself to protect the more valuable stainless components. Pool light installations are a particular concern because they involve electrical conductors near metal pool hardware. Inspect the zinc anode annually — when it has corroded to less than 50% of its original mass, replace it. A healthy zinc anode is a sign your bonding and grounding system is working correctly.